Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. We visit the space, measure, assess the substrate condition, and give you a written estimate at no charge. The estimate covers labor, materials we supply, and any prep work the surface requires. We do not start until you have reviewed and accepted it.

The right tile depends on the location, traffic level, and your maintenance preferences. For floors, the PEI wear rating matters. PEI 1 and 2 tiles are wall-only; PEI 3 handles light residential foot traffic; PEI 4 and 5 handle heavier use. For wet areas, the tile's water absorption rating and the coefficient of friction (COF) for slip resistance both come into play. We walk through these factors with you so the tile you choose performs well in the actual space, not just in the showroom.

Either works. Many homeowners in Cordillera Ranch and Boerne select tile themselves from local distributors or specialty showrooms. Others prefer that we handle sourcing. When we source, we can suggest options at different price points and order the correct overage percentage to account for cuts and breakage, which is typically 10 to 15 percent for straight lays and more for diagonal or herringbone patterns.

Substrate preparation is everything that happens before the first tile is set. This includes checking the floor for flatness (tile industry standards require no more than 3/16-inch variation over a 10-foot span for most tile), repairing cracks or weak spots, and installing the correct backer material. For wet areas, it also includes a waterproofing membrane. Skipping or rushing this step is the single most common cause of tile failures like cracked grout, loose tiles, and lippage. It is where we spend significant time.

A bathroom floor or small kitchen backsplash can often be completed in one to two days. A full bathroom renovation with shower walls, floor, and niche work typically runs three to five days, including drying time between stages. Large floor areas or complex patterns take longer. We give you a realistic timeline in the estimate so you can plan accordingly.

Sanded grout contains fine sand aggregates and is used for joints wider than 1/8 inch. The sand gives it body and helps prevent shrinkage cracking in wider joints. Unsanded grout is smoother and works for narrow joints, typically 1/16 to 1/8 inch. Using the wrong type can lead to cracking or joint failure over time. For polished stone like marble, sanded grout can scratch the surface, so unsanded is the correct choice even if the joint is wider than usual. We select the appropriate grout for each project.

Mortar (thinset) typically requires 24 to 48 hours to cure before grouting. After grout is applied, most manufacturers recommend waiting another 24 to 72 hours before light water exposure, and a full 7 days before heavy use. We follow manufacturer specifications and tell you the exact wait time for your specific products. Rushing this window is a common cause of grout failure.

Cement-based grouts are porous and benefit from a penetrating sealer, particularly in wet areas and on floors. Epoxy grout is non-porous and does not require sealing. For most residential projects in the Hill Country climate, we recommend sealing after the grout has fully cured and then reapplying every one to two years depending on the location and traffic level. We discuss this with every homeowner before the job closes.

A single cracked tile after the job is complete is usually caused by point impact or a void beneath the tile. Call us. We can assess whether it is an isolated issue or a sign of a substrate problem. If it is impact damage, we can replace the tile, which is why we always recommend keeping a small quantity of leftover tiles from your project. If it is a substrate issue, we address the root cause before replacing the surface tile.